Saturday 5 February 2022

7 Diagonal Holding (hippari-osae)

If a foundation is used on small motifs, it is used as a single layer. On larger motifs, other embroidery may be added on top in which case it is a foundation layer and some form of holding is used to secure it.
© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

Diagonal holding (Hd) is used only on a foundation of twisted thread*. The success of this technique is largely dependent on the consistency of the foundation, i.e., the uniformity of the twist and the spacing of the threads. The twisted threads on the Pines on my Hanayama are very inconsistent so it was difficult to establish the correct angle and the holding thread is clearly visible in some places.
© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

Long diagonal stitches in a thin thread of the same colour as the foundation cover the entire foundation.
© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

The angle of the holding stitches is adjusted to match the twist in foundation thread so that it is barely visible.
© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

We had overcast weather for a couple of weeks with very poor natural light. I stitched this pine under artificial light. At the time of stitching, I thought that I had matched the direction of the twisted thread but in natural light I can see that it is not well matched.
© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

Stitching in natural light, I was better able to align the holding stitches with the twist on this pine.
© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

The holding stitches are tied down at intervals with short stitches in the same direction as the foundation. The couching stitches, in the same thread as the holding stitches, pierce the foundation stitches. This was counter intuitive to me as I thought this would spoil the look of the foundation. I have learnt to make my couching stitches a little longer so that they blend into the foundation stitch and do not "pinch" the holding stitch. If the couching stitches are placed between the foundation stitches, they can displace them creating small gaps in the foundation.

Happy Stitching

*On the Konbuin fukusa, stitched in the Edo period, a variation of diagonal holding was used on a flat foundation. The diagonal holding stitches (of 0.5 flat silk) are at a much shallower angle, similar to that used in short stitch holding. The couching stitches are spaced approximately 1 cm apart and arranged in rows. As the holding stitches and couching are more visible than on a twisted foundation, consistency is crucial.

1 comment:

Rachel said...

There's always more to explore and discover with stitchery, isn't there! But, my goodness, the difference good lighting makes to working these sort of elements!