Long and Short Stitch, An Alternative Method

I hadn’t planned to do a series of posts on LSS but it seems that I’m not finished with it yet. This is not intended to be a definitive guide; I am certainly no expert on the subject. These are just my ramblings and pictures of my sample stitching.

The method describe in my previous post was based on the Japanese embroidery technique nagamijika-sashinui (alternating LSS). The foundation row consists of long stitches (approx. 10mm) alternating with short stitches (6-7mm).


The stitches of the following row are all the same length (approx 10mm) and worked between the long stitches of the foundation row, splitting the short stitches about half way along their length.


The stitches of the following rows are also the same length and are worked between the stitches of the preceding row, splitting the stitches of the previous row about one-third along their length.


The stitches in the final row are worked in the same way and are shorter, ending in line with the ends of the stitches in the previos row.


In her book Painting with a Needle, Young Yang Chung describes a different method; one that uses long and short stitches in every row.

The first row is worked in the same way as for nagamijika-sashinui but with slightly shorter stitches (approximately 8mm and 5mm).


The following rows also consist of alternating long and short stitches that overlap and interlock the stitches of the preceding row. The long stitches are roughly 13mm and the short stitches about 5mm.


Young Yang Chung says that the stitches should come from below the stitches in the previous row rather than split them. She suggests moving the stitch aside with your finger; I found it easier to do this with my tekobari.


The stitches do not travel across the fabric as the above diagram suggests. I drew it this way to illustrate how the stitches overlap and interlock.


And this is how it looks stitched.





Happy Stitching

Alternating Long and Short Stitch

It goes by several names but is perhaps most widely known as Long and Short Stitch and but why it is called this is a mystery to me! Although the first and last rows contain short stitches, all the other rows consist entirely of long stitches.

Japanese embroidery calls the technique sashinui which is described as "a stitch used to fill an area with different layers of threads, which are superimposed on the threads below or inserted between them". I don’t think that 'long and short stitch' is a literal translation of sashinui but simply the name of the technique that most closely resembles it. There are three variations: nagamijika-sashinui (alternating LSS), midare-sashinui (random LSS) and kussetsu-sashinui (curved angular stitches). The way that nagamijika-sashinui is worked, "Staggered Alternating Straight Stitch" seems a more appropriate name but, I admit, it is clumsy and unlikely to catch on.

The (full length) stitches of nagamijika-sashinui are very regular. They are consistent in length, starting (and ending) on the same line and follow the outine of the shape. The stitches should be evenly spaced. As with all filling stitches, I try to space them like the fingers of my hand, just touching; neither spread apart, nor squeezed together is comfortable!




I think of the first row as the foundation row. It is actually two rows worked simultaneously alternating "long" stitches with "short" stitches. This may be a little pedantic but it really helps me to look at it this way. The "long" stitches are 10mm, the "short" stitches are approximately two-thirds their length (6-7mm).

I stitched this sample on a piece of linen and used the threads as a guide, consequently the stitches are not as evenly spaced as they should be but this macro shot exaggerates that greatly.


The second row of stitches is worked between the "long" stitches of the foundation row and split the "short" stitches half way along their length. This is what the description of sashinui means by "... superimposed on the threads below ...". Tricia Nguyen of Thistle Threads recommends that you come up in the fabric and down into the thread (reason being that it is easier to split the thread from the top). Trish Burr advises the complete opposite, that you come up through the thread and down into the fabric (reason being that the split in the thread is neater). In Japanese embroidery the rule is that you always stitch towards you, so both directions are used.



The third row is worked between the stitches of the second row and split the "long" stitches of the foundation row approximately one-third their length.


Each subsequent row is worked in the same way, filling the space between the "long" stitches of the preceding row and overlapping the "short" stitch between them by one-third.

And there it is, as if by magic, I suddenly see why it is called Long and Short Stitch. Working alternate stitches row by row gives the illusion of "long" and "short" stitches.


Easy isn’t it? Well, yes, if all you are doing is filling a very small rectangular shape!


Happy Stitching

Progress Report - June

I had twelve days off in May. Nine days were spent decorating (yes, still decorating and still not finished!). The other 3 days I spent with girl friends. A group of us went to Edinburgh to see an exhibition of Japanese embroidery. I have so much to blog about if only I can find the time!

Embroidery got no days this month. That’s not to say that I have not done any; I still try to do 15 minutes before I go to work each day. That has been patchy to say the least and I have not done any Japanese embroidery or Japanese bead embroidery at all!

I have made a little progress on the Floral Glove. It doesn’t look very different from the last report but I have done some work on it, honest!

© Thistle Threads/Carol-Anne Conway

I shall be glad when the decorating is finished; I am getting very grumpy about the lack of stitching time!

Happy Stitching

How do I Hate Thee ....

Thank you for your kind comments and emails; I really appreciate the support and encouragement. Perhaps before I continue with this series of posts I should explain that this is a bit retrospective. I normally post things in chronological order but for this Phase I have grouped things by technique. If in the following posts it appears that I have ignored your advice, it is because I am writing about things that happened a few weeks ago. Although things have moved on, I didn’t want to leave parts of the journey unrecorded.

Jane asked what I hate about my first attempt. To a small degree it is the way it looks. I love the look of a flat silk foundation, smooth and shiny. I understand that random LSS will never look as smooth and shiny as a flat silk foundation but I think the stitching on my third flower looks rough and dull. But the reason I dislike it so intensely is the way that I felt while I was stitching it. Embroidery is one of the great pleasures of my life. Stitching these petals made me stressed, confused and unhappy. When I look at these petals, all I can see is that unhappiness and I resent them for that.

© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

When I returned from Bournemouth I decided to finish the second flower before continuing with the third flower. I hoped that more experience of alternating LSS would give me more confidence in tackling the random variation. I left the stitches in while I did that hoping I would begin to see them differently. I didn’t. I know now that I will always see them as unhappy stitches and I don’t want to live with them.

When I look at my previous phase pieces I can see the imperfections and the things I hope one day I will be able to stitch better. I also see the joy, the pride and the pleasure I had in stitching them. I see the same things in the first two flowers on this phase. That is what I want to see when I look at the third flower.

Happy Stitching

Meltdown

Rewind to March and my Japanese embroidery class. Much to my surprise I was getting on quite well with nagamijika-sashinui (alternating LSS), even beginning to enjoy it. But there was an elephant in the room.

When I finished stitching the first flower, Denise had suggested that I move onto midare-sashinui but I was not ready for the twin evil that is Random Long and Short Stitch.

It is very difficult to explain why I find random so unfathomable. I have a logical mind; I like order, pattern and reason. One of the things that first attracted me to JE was that it is very precise. I like that precision; I don’t like random.

But I could not put it off forever and it would have been folly not to attempt midare-sashinui in class while my tutors were on hand to coach me. I designated Thursday midare-sashinui day. At the start of the day I read every book I have to gain some insight to the technique. Then I read my box chart. Then I consulted my tutor. Then I worked the padding on each of the petals. Then I selected my silks. Then, well then I could find nothing else to prevent me getting on with it!

And I hated it! I like to know exactly where a stitch should start and finish. I like to know the precise length and angle of each and every stitch. I don’t like random.

Unusually, I didn’t take any step by step pictures of the first petal. I can only think this is because my brain went into melt down as it struggled to comprehend the incomprehensible!

© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

This is what I managed to stitch on Thursday and Friday and I hate it. The next thing I do to this flower will be to unpick it!

Not so Happy Stitching!

Camellias, Some Progress

I am much more confident with alternating long and short stitch now.

© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

That really showed when I stitched the remaining two petals of this flower.

© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

Apart from reverse stitching an odd stitch here or there, these went in without a hitch.

© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

The tapering section on the petal above was the only part that I had to redo because I did not like my first attempt.

© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

I am very pleased with these petals and the progress I have made with LSS but before I get to complacent, I’ll just remind myself that I still have to face midare-sashinui.

© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

Happy Stitching

Progress Report - May

Thirty days hath September, April, June and November ...

I was working for sixteen days, in Venice for 4 days, decorating for 6 days and at a Japanese Embroidery open day for one day. That left just four days for embroidery!

On one of those days I stitched from early morning to late evening but I was watching the Royal Wedding at the same time. Another day, I went for a walk with my Mum with the hope of hearing the cuckoo for the first time this year (which we did) and one the remaining two days, stitching was squeezed inbetween, shopping, cleaning, washing etc, etc.

If it sounds like I am making excuses for the lack of progress this month, I am.

Camellias does not look very different from a month ago but I have made a lot of progress with learning Long and Short Stitch. Having said that, something is seriously hindering my progress with this piece. When I find time, I will blog about both my progress and the obstacles.

© JEC/Carol-Anne Conway

When I realised that I was making no progress with Camellias, I decided to turn my attention to something else but not completely different. I began Floral Glove several months ago but it had gone into hibernation. Now was a good time to revive this project and I have made reasonable progress given that I have has so little stitching time. I have a lot to blog about this project!

© Thistle Threads/Carol-Anne Conway

In addition, I have done another Round Robin Doodle Travelling page. These are a lot of fun, but I cannot blog about them until the Round Robin is complete.

Happy Stitching